CNC machined in a skeletal style. It strengthens the front end and acts as a mount for front fender and fork guards. It’s aircraft alloy aluminum. Mounts without removing the wheel.
Here are a few things to keep in mind when looking for a 19” 13 spoke mag wheel. Especially if you are going to use the new 19” wheel on the front and your existing 19” on the rear.
This option might be preferable if you want to:
There are few different versions of the 19” 13 spoke front wheels used in the Sportster family. They use different bearings, have their own appearance, hub dimensions and mate up with different brake rotors and pulley/sprockets.
There appears to be some overlap in the transition years. Some of the Australian made wheels had fully painted spokes with no bare aluminum flats. Front and rear brake rotors are not the same. Rear brake rotors require ⅜” bolts and front brake rotors require 5/16” bolts.
Axle Size | Bearing Type | Hub Width | Pilot O.D. | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
1986-1999 | ||||
3/4" | Timken | 4.055" | 1.975" | These wheels are compatible with pre-2000 brake rotors with a 1.985” ID. 2000-? brake rotors with a 2.215” ID require an adapter. The brakes used on this era of bike were single piston floating calipers. The brake mounts on the forks changed in 2000. |
2000-2003 | ||||
3/4" | Sealed | 4.391" | 2.208" | These wheels are compatible with 2000 and on brake rotors with a 2.215 ID. They are not compatible with pre-2000 rotors. The brakes used were 4 piston floating calipers which use a different brake mount than the pre-2000 bikes. If you use this wheel on the front of a pre-2000 Sportster you will need to replace your left fork lower (in the case of a single disk bike) and brake caliper with newer units. |
2004-2007 | ||||
1" | Sealed | 4.391" | 2.208" | These wheels are compatible with 2000 and on brake rotors with a 2.215 ID. They are not compatible with pre-2000 rotors. The brakes used were 4 piston floating calipers which use a different brake mount than the pre-2000 bikes. If you use this wheel on the front of a pre-2000 Sportster you will need to replace your left fork lower (in the case of a single disk bike) and brake caliper with newer units. |
2008-? | ||||
In 2008 HD switched to a 25mm (1”) axle. All bets are off! Phil’s B kit has worked with these wheels with no problems. |
Good luck and have fun.
Craig Caldwell
craigthecarpenter@gmail.com
Alistair Renvoize from Penrith, England built the Sportster street tracker I should have built but I did mine on the cheap. Al said...
"Ever since my youth I had dreamt of one day buying an XR750. They are too expensive so I started exploring the possibility of converting a Sportster into a replica. That is when I stumbled across Phil's site on the internet. The products and ethos felt right. I ordered the tank, seat unit, 19" front to rear wheel conversion kit, etc."
BODY | |
---|---|
Tank in white: coating, cap, petcocks & mounting | $635 |
Tail in white: seat, taillight & license plate | $660 |
Body parts sanded, polished & graphics applied free (learn more), add | $250 |
Left side cover, rounded style, black | $125 |
Mud guard, replaces stock fender dirt deflector | $74 |
Chrome license plate frame | $15 |
LED turn signals 4, not legal | $45 |
LED turn signals 2, not legal | $29 |
SXR & SXR/USA GRAPHICS | |
SXR Graphics - 750, 883, 1000, 1200 Order individually or as a kit |
|
Tank sides | $89 |
Tail graphics | $29 |
Fork guard | $29 |
SXR kit (tank & tail) | $147 |
SXR/USA Graphics Order individually or as a kit |
|
Tank sides | $89 |
No. 1 for tail deck/tank top | $23 |
Tail graphics | $29 |
Fork guards | $29 |
Six-piece USA graphics kit | $212 |
FRONT END | |
Fork brace | $255 |
Fork guards, mounts to brace, white painters | $95 |
Fork guards, mounts to brace, orange or black, polished for no painting | $139 |
Front fender, mount to brace, white painter | $95 |
Front fender, mount to brace, orange or black, polished for no painting | $139 |
Front number panel, white/black back | $139 |
Front number panel surrounding edge painted orange | $75 |
REAR WHEEL CONVERSION KITS | |
Kit A: 9 spoke wheel, ¾” axle, 1.980 or 2.3” OD pilot | $325 |
Kit B: 13 spoke cast wheel, 1” axle, 2.205 OD pilot | $345 |
Kit D: 13 spoke wheel, ¾” axle, 2.208” OD pilot | $345 |
Kit E: 13 spoke wheel, 3/4" axle, 1.975" OD pilot | $345 |
Kit F: 7 spoke AMS wheel | $543 |
Machine 13 spoke wheels for 7/16” screws (kits C, D, E) | $85 + shipping |
Machine 13 spoke wheels for 7/16" screws and bore center (kit B) | $122 + shipping |
CONTROL & SUSPENSION | |
1” Dirt track bars w/ dimples, Rise-4”, Pullback-10” Width-34” | $89 |
Napoleon bar end mirrors, black | $61 |
Napoleon bar end mirrors, chrome | $61 |
Hammer head grips, old style, huge hit | $19 |
15” Progressive shocks, no sleeves, black 60/130 springs | $312 |
15” Progressive shocks, no sleeves, orange springs 60/130 springs | $363 |
STAINLESS EXHAUST SYSTEMS | |
SuperTrapp 2-into-2 stainless for 1985-03 Sportsters | $895 |
SuperTrapp 2004-2010 Sportsters w/ O 2 sensors | $895 |
Cone 2-into-1 stainless for 1985-03 Sportsters | $634 |
FedEx and USPS
Visa. Master, Discover. Minnesotans add 7.5.% tax. Cards charged only on day of shipment.
15% restocking charge, subject to condition. Shipping charges not compensated.
Specs and prices may change without prior notification.
Products sold by PLR are copyrighted. Some parts are not DOT approved for street use and are for racing only.
Why is that piker Phil Little charging $125 for an orange color upgrade and why does he charge me $125 to sand my parts?
My fiberglass guy normally shoots white parts. White gelcoat is the cheapest resin and it hides flaws well. When I ask him to shoot orange he has to take time purging the lines on his spray equipment, dial in the orange and re-purge the lines to shoot white again. This takes time he wants to be compensated for. Reasonable.
When parts come out of the mold the surface is always orange-peely. And scratches appear as the part is dragged out of the mold. Scratches and dips in the mold are imported to the part. Oh for sure you can take the parts as-is and do the work yourself. (You sand with 2000 w/d and polish with 3M's Finessette II.) I spend a whole bunch of time sanding and polishing. I often do it 2 and 3 times to get rid of all the blems. Sometimes foreign specs are in the part. I remove them and fill the divot with orange gelcoat. (It would be impossible for you to do this.) When I’m done, the surface is beautiful. This step too takes time.
About a year ago I made a new Gen II tank and tail and have been selling them ever since but have failed to show you the difference. My bad.
This photo shows you the old and new tanks. The new tank is about 2" wider and just 1/4" taller than the old tank. I think the new one looks better than the old one--it's just proportioned length/width-wise better than the narrow original.
The side view is very close to the old tank. The only difference is the graphic panel is slightly reduced.
You can contrast the new Gen II tail in this photo with the old molded in taillight in Gen I tail. The new Gen II tail has a larger taillight which is safer. The overall design of the tail is unchanged.
Mitch Gallagher from Reno called me for a 19" rear wheel kit. When I asked what he was doing (because he hadn’t order any other Street Tracker stuff from me) he said he was hooligan racing. I’ve been around for a while (at 74) and been a flat tracker but I hadn’t heard of this hooligan thing. Oh yea, he says, "It’s the rage all over the country."
Turns out in the west and east, track promoters hold ‘run whatcha brung’ classes. It goes off the edge with chopper classes too but who am I to judge. In Mitches case, the track he runs on is an 1/8 mile dirt oval. "On a Sportser" I said! "Oh yea" he says again. He said it is un-serious racing and everyone has fun.
If others of you are doing the same thing send photos and I’ll add you to the nutty list. Thanks Mitch and the rest of you crazies. I wonder if his dog is making an editorial statement.