Thanks for buying this hood. I'm sure it will snap heads on the trail, at restaurants and at events. Here are some mounting hints.
- I discovered that my mold, made from a stock hood, was not even all the way around where it mounts into the bumper tray. We now straighten the bottom edge before you get it. This may mean the hinge hole drill points are off. They are likely to be a bit low and that is why we no longer drill them out.
- I suggest drilling the center hole out with a drill less than ¼" (your final drill size). Put the hood on and see how much adjustment is needed then drill it out with ¼" and see how it looks. Then drill the other outer two accordingly.
- You'll notice we glassed in a bolt under the hood for the hoood stay wire. It is ¼"-20. Use a Nyloc nut on it.
- Use the stock rear bungees to secure the rear of the hood.
- If you are going to use flat style race bars instead of stock bars, you will need to order 3" PowerMadd Universal Riser Blocks from Dennis Kirk #59-5127 or Hi-Performance Engineering #15403.
- If your DNR requires a headlight on at the time I have headlights. You'll need to fashion a mount plate which mounts to the handle bar perch so it turns with the bars.
- I am not aware of a chamber for the ET250. Apparently the stock pipe works very well. It can be improved by drilling a ½" hole dead center underneath the rear of the big straight can. You drill through two layers of steel then weld the first hole back up.
- Take 10mm out of the header pipe and reconnect it.
- Use a Comet 102 drive clutch for better clutch tuning.
- If you have other tricks let me know and I'll pass them on.
That's it--go have fun. Thanks.
~ Phil Little